What is more fun and cozy than a pair of knit socks? Knit soft, chunky socks for lounging or a pair for everyday wear for loved ones as well as for yourself with this easy-to-follow written out pattern.
Knit Sock Pattern
Knitting Terms Relevant To This Project:
Slip 1 (sl1): Transfer 1 stitch from tip of left needle to right without knitting or purling that particular stitch
Knit 2 Together (K2tog): knit next two stitches together as one stitch
Purl 2 Together (P2tog): purl next two stitches together as one stitch
Supplies Needed:
4 or 5 double point needles (if you want to use a “reserve needle when working on the gusset)
1 stitch marker
Counter
Yarn
Pattern Journal (write personal measurements and rows worked for consistency as well as revisiting your favorite projects)
This sock is knit as one piece in the round from the top (cuff) down on double point needles.
Part 1: Cuff & Leg
Measure number of stitches needed by gauge of your choice of yarn and needle size (measurement of ankle = number of stitches per inch + circumference of ankle)
Cast on number of stitches on one needle
Divide stitches evenly (or as evenly as possible) between three needles
Place stitch marker between first and second stitch of first needle so you will be able to keep track of the beginning of a new row.
Decision 1 decide how you want the cuff: do you want ribbing, moss stitch, or no cuff (not knitting a cuff will result in the top of the sock rolling down a bit). Once you’ve decided your cuff style, decide how many rows you’d like for your cuff. You can keep track of how many rows you have knitted by using a counter.
Decision 2. Decide how long you want the leg of your sock. Keep track of the number of rows you have knitted using your counter.
Part 2: Heel Flap
Once the leg of your sock is as long as you’d like, divide stitches as evenly as possible between two needles. Then, knit and purl (back and forth) on one needle until you have a square:
*Row 1: [sl1, k1] end of row
*Row 2: [sl1, p1] end of row
Repeat until you have knit a square, ending with purl row (row 2)
Part 3: Turning the Heel
*Knit across half of the heel flap stitches, place your stitch marker, then knit 1 (k1), knit 2 together (k2tog), k1, then turn work around to purl over worked stitches.
*Working back, sl1, and purl all stitches until you’ve purled 1 stitch past your stitch marker. P2tog, p1, and then turn work to knit over worked stitches.
*Sl1, knit until you reach 1 stitch before you see a gap, then k2tog, k1, then turn.
*Sl1, then purl to 1 stitch before you see the gap, p2tog, p1, then turn.
*Repeat this decrease over all of gaps, until all of the stitches of your heel flap have been completed at the end of the row on the purl side. Half of the original number of stitches should be left.
*Turn work, and knit to the marker. This is the beginning of the rounds that follow.
Part 4: The Gusset:
*With your reserve needle, knit to the end of the heel flap, pick up and knit into every stitch slipped along the edge of the heel flap.
*With another needle, knit across the reserved stitches (the ones you didn’t work while you were turning the heel).
*With your regular knitting needle (the fourth needle), pick up and knit into every slipped stitch on the other side of your heel flap. It will be the same number of stitches you picked up with your reserve needle. Knit to your marker. Your needles should form a triangle, with the point toward the center of the heel.
You will now begin decreasing stitches:
Round 1:
*Needle 1: k to last 3 stitches; k2tog, k1
*Needle 2: k across
*Needle 3: k1, sl1, pass slipped stitch over last Knit stitch; k remainder of the row
Round 2: Knit around
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until total number of stitches is the same number as stitches you originally cast on.
Tip Use your counter to keep track of what row you are working to avoid getting lost (row 1 or row 2)
Part 5: The Foot:
Knit into the round until the length of the foot reaches the top of your little toe (or the recipient’s little toe). You can measure the length of the recipient’s foot for this, or try the sock on, being careful that your stitches don’t fall off one or more of your needles. Also, don’t forget to keep track of the number of rows you knit for the length so both socks match. You can track this with your counter, and log the number of stitches in your pattern journal.
Part 6: The Toe (and The End)
Round 1:
*Needle 1: k to last 3 stitches; k2tog, k1
*Needle 2: k1, s1, k1, pass slipped stitch over last knit stitch, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
*Needle 3: k1, sl1, k1, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch, k remainder of stitches
Round 2: Knit around
*Repeat both rounds until total number of stitches is half of total stitches with which you began.
*Repeat Row 1 (of Part 6) for all needles until only 2 stitches remain on Needles 1 & 3, and 4 stitches remain on Needle 2.
Cut the yarn with a “tail” about 6 inches long. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the remaining stitches, bringing the tail to the inside of your finished sock. Weave in the ends.
Congratulations! You have knitted a sock!
Comments